I sought for familiar expression on every pilgrim's face - on the western wall, inside Dome of Rock and the Church of Holy Sepulcher - it was of deep faith, sense of fragility of human existence, lamenting the loss of ancient cause.
The old city has three of the world's most important religious sites. Just behind the Wailing Wall which is considered the holiest for Jews, I could see the glittering Dome of the Rock, which houses the rock from where Muslims believe the prophet Mohammed ascended to heaven. And only minutes away is the pilgrim-thronged Via Dolorosa (Way of Sorrows), which follows the Stations of the Cross to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, on the site where Jesus is believed to have been crucified.